Review #778 - SMWS 36.221 'Meaty Mirepoix' - Benrinnes 15 Year
Benrinnes is known for having a robust, potentially sulphury, often savory distillate that pairs well with sherry casks. Here's a single cask from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society which leans into that reputation: a 15 year single malt named 'Meaty Mirepoix' which was initially matured in an ex-bourbon hogshead, but finished for about 4 years in an 'ex-bodega' Pedro Ximenez sherry butt.
Mirepoix is a combination of diced onions, carrots, and celery which is sauteed in butter or oil; this traditional combination of vegetables serves as the base for a number of soups and stews, especially in French cooking.
Based on the name of this cask and the distillery's reputation, we're expecting a savory dram - let's see if that's the case.
SMWS 36.221 'Meaty Mirepoix' - Benrinnes 15 Year
Scotland/Speyside - Single Malt
Price: USD 190 (2025)
Age Statement: 15 Years
Strength: 57.9% ABV
Cask Makeup: Ex-bourbon hogshead, finished in a first fill bodega Pedro Ximenez sherry cask
Details: Not chill filtered, no color added; 282 bottles
Tasting Methodology: Reviewed 3 times over 6 months; bottles at 90%, 70%, and 60% (blind tasting) fill levels at times of review. Tasted in a nosing glass each time, rested 15+ minutes
Nose: Strong orange fruit notes, a bit of cooked onions, some sulphur - it is indeed mildly savory. Olive oil, malty grain, a lightly funky side (similar to worm tub signature), and some hay... very soft meaty notes linger in the background. Despite the savory scents, this nose has a light complexion overall.
Palate: Malty and quite fruity actually - oranges, fizzy cranberry sauce, sour apples, lemon. The complexion is light again, though we get hints of juicy prune, charcoal-like sulphur, cinnamon, and dry oak as well. There's a subtle wood smoke from the cask; the mouthfeel has a medium-thick thickness.
Finish: Vegetable oil, more oranges, yellow apple, and grass; it's sour at times, quite light, with some malty flavors and citrus like lemon. Tart orange oil and hints of savory cooked vegetables linger in the aftertaste; it's a medium-long finish, mostly due to the spirity heat.
Final Note: There were some subtle savory and vegetal notes across this tasting, but those weren't quite as strong as we were hoping. In general, it's quite a light whisky considering the theoretical strength of the 4 year finish in a first fill sherry cask; there is a nice malty side to this, and we liked the oily texture and flavors. It's a decent dram, but nothing too special to us.
This was a pricey single cask from SMWS, especially for the age of 15 years; we think the value isn't great in this case, as there are many other casks from the Society that we prefer the flavor of, and also that are cheaper.
Our Rating: 6.7 / 10
In the current whisky landscape of increasing prices and variable quality, we've added a value rating to our reviews that relates to the score and the available pricing of each whisky. This roughly equates to a 0-10 scale; no reviews so far have exceeded a score of 10, although it is technically possible for the formula to produce a value rating higher than 10 with a high enough score and low enough price.
Value Rating: 4.64
About Us: We're a husband and wife review team living in the Midwest United States. Generally, our reviews and tasting notes will be a compilation of both of our experiences with a whisky over several tasting sessions.
Check out our other Benrinnes reviews:
Review #483 - Blackadder Benrinnes Raw Cask 15 Year Barbados Rum Cask Finish
